End engine runs rough idling problem - in two steps, permanently.

End engine runs rough idling problem.

The cause

If your problem is not caused by a spark plug gone bad, a spark plug wire with a break in it leaking voltage, or an air leak, or vacuum leak ...

It must be an internal problem.

This drawing shows the several causes of your motors inside problem causing your engine to run rough, speedup, tap, miss-fire, or stall.

They should be closed.

The arrow shows the valves still closing as the piston compresses the fuel, ready for the spark to ignite the fuel.

In your mind, imagine a bit of that fuel - just sucked in, being pushed back out of the cylinder.

That means there will be a smaller amount of gas to combust - burn, as it explodes to push the piston down.

Two points about this situation as the caused of why your dirty engine runs rough idling, problem.

1. Since less fuel is present to push your motors piston all the way down, and spin the crankshalf two full spins, as it should, the weaker crank spinning momentum puts a double load on the next cylinder to fire - and engine speed drops.

   The combination of those two event is one cause of your rough idle.

2. The other is this: Lets go back to those two arrows and the problem they also cause by permitting some of the fuel to get pushed back out into the intake manifold.

   When the valves failed to close and seal-in the fuel charge, and combustion occurred - "Houston, We've got problems."

   Each combustion occurrence is such - were it in you tire, it would blow a hole in it, and instantly collapse the tire.

   Ever have that happen to you?

   The resulting force of combustion - averaging just under 2000 degrees temperature, will escape following the double arrow out as an escape route - and instantly ignite the next charge of gas, lined-up waiting to go into the cylinder.

   This repeat of the above picture, saves you from scrolling back up.

   I did this so you can look at the double arrow and imagine how escaping combustion gas - moving at blow-out speeds, slip pass your dirty, slow-closing valves, pre-ignite the next charge of gas, and caused your motor to have a rough idle.

   

   You may hear a "backfire" pop sound as this occurs.

   Or, just feel the motor falter or shake, as this happens.

   The piston, during the next cycle, sucks-in this just burnt, and now expended load of [just burnt] gas.

   As the spark plugs fires - no combustion explosion takes place as the fuel was wasted and burnt-away by the motors previous cycle.

   Since no combustion occurred to push the piston down, the motor speed drops. You feel it as a rough idling problem.

Does the above sound like your engine runs rough idling, problem?

If so, it cost about $1500 to $3000 to tear down the motor, takes each valve out, hand clean them, and re-install them again, to end your problem.

Or, you can try my method - which has help thousands of such engines end this problem for under $100.

Cost is just $60+ $15s&h= $75 total. Shipped to your door. Call me, and I'll send it to you FedEx to your door with instructions, and my phone help, if you need that during the simple install process. Visa M/C. Call me at 1 512 665 3388 .. george

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