Products to end engine knock, valve tap, wear problems. Quick, easy remedies end worry, saves the motor, avoids repair, adds dependability

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We will introduce to you a great product that does more than end engine knock and tap.

This product removes 6 power-robbing conditions that fool you into thinking the motors worn-out - as it ends tap and knock noise!

It is a quick and easy way to end worrisome engine knock, avoid repair expense worry, and have a great running car for a very long time.

My very serious knock and fix.

My v8 Ford van seem to foul one of the rear cylinder spark plugs and it would have to be replaced.

Did this caused a my knock from a piston rod-bearing to go out? Yes! Here's what happen...

A piston rod is a 6-8 inch heavy rod attached to each piston on one end and the other is connected to the motors crankshalf.

Over time, a deep,

Low thud-like knock developed when road levels made the motor run with "less strain."

I thought its cause to be a crack on the flywheel; since my astro van produced a similar knock there and a new flywheel ended the knock sound. This knock was not from that source...

Eventually, the sound became a heavy engine knock all the time, and fear of a piston rod busting loose off the crankshaft became eminent. I pulled the engine out, and discovered one of the two rear piston rods was sloppy lose - and the culprit making the knock.

A new crankshalf, one new piston, rod and bearings, corrected the engine knock problem. The odd thing was, the other rear connecting rod, which shared the same crank journal, was as if brand new. I don't know what happened. This sound was a deep, heavy knock.

That kind of engine knock means costly engine overhaul time. $3000 +. Unless you were lucky and that it was only flywheel that cause your knock and went bad - which seem to occur only at slowest speeds. Flywheel fix, $400.

With valves, they make a tap tap sound

And is not as deep in sound, may come and go, or tap constantly at all speeds. Load or no load - it taps.

Those piston connecting rod "knocks," are way different from a valve "tap" - which occur more rapidly, are more metallic in sound.

Sticky residues on the valve stem, or a layer of heavy combustion residue will keep valves from closing and this allows a space to open between the cam and the bottom of the valve.

As the cam rotates the space allows it to slap the bottom of the valve stem - and the "tap, tap, tap, sound occurs with each revolution of the cam lobe. This problem produces a more rapid tap, tap, tap.

Or, this could be the cause of a engine knock and tap.

Between the cam lobe, and riding on the cam lobe, are Hydraulic valve lifters - there's one for each valve. These are hydraulic because engine oil under pressure feeds and pushes a piston - inside each lifter, outward to stay in constant contact with the bottom of each valve.

That lifters-piston acts as a slack, or wear take-up adjuster. It remains in constant contact with the valve stem base and makes for very quiet engine operation. However....

When oil breaks downs -

Oil forms sludge, and all oils do - about half way thru the oil change period. Sludge sticks to internal parts like oil-balls on sandy beaches on the gulf shoreline. After several years all new cars acquire sludge...

So, piston "rings" and valve "stems" stay dirty longer - and in time, stick, causing some power loss development, and more combustion blow-by. A large source of oil breakdown.

Stay with me, now -

I'm trying to paint a picture to teach you about good maintenance. Look over this drawing to get the idea of what is happening inside your motor - and needs to be remedied, as explained below.



So, some of this sludge - sticks your car piston rings and valves - with a sticky, tar-like coating - I'll show you how to remove it.

Sludge binds and therefore slows the rapid closing rate - introducing new wear problems.

First, here are the 3 problem areas. The three areas my method of cleaning addresses with special cleaners to end the tap problem.

1. The slow-closing valve problem. One cause of engine knock and tap.

2. The slow-closing valve lags behind and this opens a space between the valve lifter - and the bottom of the valve stem.

   What ever the cause, the remedy mentioned below, ends it.

3. Normally, the stem, the lifter, and cam lobe are always touching each other so no space occurs. Now, a space occurs - and the tap sound is heard as they smack each other. Make sense?

Tap tap sounds can occur

From the valve lifter itself:Sludge collects inside the lifter, it either jams the lifter piston in its bottom position - and creates a space, or holds it from moving upward, or plugs the oil passage way.

Whatever the cause of the gap the tap tap sound results because of it. On some cars, the tap disappears when the sludge get hot and flows again - ending the tap sound until the next morning.

My method of cleaning ends all three knocks and taps.

The links below describe the products you need. They include...

MC+, one of the ingredients to drastically reduce friction wear called metal migration, the most destructive kind. MC+ helps end valve, lifter, and carbon based taps.

It is the strongest, most protective product sold on the market place. It is called, the Mega Power Worn Motor Treatment.

Some mechanics don't like it, but me - I'm a mechanic, I love what it can do to prevent to end my customers engine tap and knock problems = as describe here.

This is one place, on line, you can learn more about this product... see links below.

auto-tune-up-and-repair-options.com/engine-transmission.html

Hope this helps..... End......................

An engine "knock," from a Piston rod bearing that failed also produces a knock. If the knock disappears when speeding up, going up a hill, and louder going down the hill, and at idle, the motor requires a motor overhaul. $2000 up in repair cost.

Click this link to more about products to end engine knock, valve tap.